Garden Party

I finished a quilt that I have been working on for the last 11 months.  Yeah!  I saw it last year at the Minnesota quilt show in the Fiberworks Quilt Shop booth.  I debated for quite a while over if I should buy the pattern and kit.  I don’t usually buy kits or do quilts with lots of applique – this quilt has a ton!  I wasn’t sure if I would really stick with it to finish it, but the design and the fabrics were so pretty.  Now, I’m happy to say I actually finished it and it’s hanging in my stairway.  It’s called Garden Party.


I don’t have a great spot to hang it for a photos, so my only option was to lay it out on the grass.  It doesn’t look as pretty as it could, but this will have to do.   Even though my photos don’t do it justice, I hope you can see all the pretty prints that were in the kit.  I took a photo of the ones that were included in mine.  In addition to those print, there were 6 background prints and several text prints for the sashing.  I didn’t have any similar prints in my stash.


The quilt is done with fusible machine applique.  I used the blanket stitch in combination with a small zig zag.  I think it took 2-3 hours to trace, cut and stitch down each block.  At that point, I didn’t have all the small heart-shaped petals on the flower stems yet.  I decided to stitch them down during the machine quilting process.  I don’t like it as well, but I was just wanting to get it finished.



For the machine quilting, I chose to do a lot of pebble quilting  (which was no fun at all – I hate doing it!) and some easier (and much more fun) stitching in the flower petals.  If you look closely, you will see words quilted in some of the petals.


In this block, I stitched my boy’s names.  My photo isn’t very good, so you have to look hard to see them (lower left corner)


In this block, I stitched the name of my newest book “Joyful Stitcher.  This quilt was part of the reason why I was so inspired to do a book on applique, so I thought it was fitting to include those words.


My lessons learned from this quilt –

I’m really struggling with the fusible products on the market right now.  In the past, I have always used Heat’n’Bond light, but I can’t seem to get it to stick at all anymore.  I can’t figure out what I am doing wrong with it.  I think it works a little better when it’s a new roll, but not much.  I also tried Steam a Seam 2 and I thought the fabric frayed so badly with it.  I also had trouble with the glue sticking to the  paper layer that I hadn’t traced my pattern on (but only part of the time, so I wasn’t tracing it to the wrong side).  I’m curious if anyone would like to share their opinions on their favorite fusible?


Secondly, I discovered a new thread for doing the applique – Sulky Blendables.   I got this multi pack  (though the spools in the photo might not be exactly what was in that pack).  I liked the weight and the fact that the thread is variegated.


If you are interested in this design, you can find the pattern here and the kit here.


Posted in Decorating, Machine Quilting, Quilting | Tagged , , , , | 34 Comments

Summer Stitch Along, Part 6 – The Whipstitch

How is everyone coming with their Joyful Stitcher project?  I’m curious to hear where everyone is at.  I am sewing on mine much faster than I am blogging on it, but the next blog posts should be a lot less involved so it won’t take me quite as long to prepare them.

For those of you not doing the stitch along, I have some other projects that I will be sharing soon so there will be more variety coming up.  Just hang in there!  If you follow my Instagram, you have already seen one those projects.  Here is a peek –  I just need to get the photos edited and I can share more.



Now, back to the Stitch Along.  Today I am sharing my favorite stitch –  It’s hand down the one I use the most!  It’s just a simple whip stitch.  Here is what the it looks like:


When I was first introduced to stitching on wool, I was taught the blanket stitch.  Though I love the look of that stitch, I find it challenging to keep even.  My frustration led me to avoid it.  The following photo shows what the blanket stitch looks like – It’s the black stitching going around the outside edge of my ornaments.

When I saw the whip stitch on wool, I decided to give it a try and found it so much easier.  They really do look similar, and when you are using thread that matches the wool applique, you can hardly tell the difference.  In addition to being easier to keep even, it is way faster!  Fast is helpful when you are trying to get lots of handwork done with little people around 😉


This detail shot shows how easy that stitch is:


There really isn’t much to it.  Position the needle as shown above, then pull the thread through.  Repeat until you run out of thread or the shape is done.  After a little practice, it should be easy to get fairly even.


Here are a few samples of places that I used that stitch on the projects from the book:




I hope you will give this stitch a try.  Let me know what you think of it!  That’s all for today.  I’ll be back soon so share more stitches.  In the meantime, the whip stitch should keep you busy until I get back.




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My Contact Paper Trick – Summer Stitch Along Post #5

Today as part of the Summer Stitch along, we get to talk about two of my favorite tricks – Layering cotton behind wool applique and using contact paper to get those applique shapes placed perfectly onto your background fabric.


The first trick is super easy, but adds a fun touch.  It’s kind of a reverse applique technique that uses cotton behind the wool.  Many of you asked about it when I did the initial preview of the book.  I used the technique in Mandala and Boho Stars quilts from the book.

This is the Mandala quilt and the large yellow circles in the center of the design and cotton.  In this case, layering the cotton in with the wool helps reduce some of the bulk that accumulates when you layer lots of wool.


This is the Boho Stars quilt.


In this case, I layered the cotton behind the wool shapes because I love the mix of the cotton prints with the wool texture.  Here’s a close-up of a couple of those blocks:


It’s super easy – All you need to do is lay a piece of cotton behind the wool applique shape that has a cut out area.  Locate the dashed lines that indicate the size of this shape on the applique templates.   You can use my freezer paper method that I talked about here, if you want help getting that size transferred onto the cotton.  Then just lay the cotton behind the wool before you stitch it.




The next trick that I want to share has been so helpful for me with the projects in this book.  In the past, when I have done applique I have struggled to get the applique shapes in position on the background fabric.  The only method that I have seen or read about is to trace the design onto a large sheet of template plastic, then stick your hand underneath and try to get the applique shape into place.  On intricate, symmetrical designs I found this method really inaccurate and putsy – reaching your hand under and realigning over and over.  I just thought that there had to be an easier way!


When I was trying to figure out an easier way to do this, it just came to me that I could use clear Contact paper instead – it’s clear and sticky.  First, use a Sharpie to transfer your pattern onto the clear side of the contact paper.  (You don’t need to reverse the shapes).


Next, peel off the paper backing and stick your applique shapes onto the sticky side of the contact paper.


For the next step, I used Roxanne’s Glue Baste-It.  It’s my preferred method for holding the applique shapes onto my background fabric.  You can also use applique pins, but I find my thread is constantly hooking on the pins or I am stabbing myself with them.  This is much easier!


Add the glue to the back side of the applique shapes.  The trick is not to use too much of this stuff – Notice how I am using lots of tiny dots?  And how I am avoiding putting it too close to where I will be stitching?


Now flip the piece over onto the background fabric (or in the sample photo below, the large teal circle that I am appliquing on first, before it is put on the background fabric.)  Center it on the block or circle, etc and press down so the glue makes good contact with the fabric below and let the glue dry.


One thing I want to point out here – Notice how I got my green flower center in the wrong spot?  You have to put down the top shape down first, then layer over that, so keep that in mind when you are using this technique.  (This was an easy fix, as I could easily tuck the points of the shape back underneath the green circle)


When the glue is dry, carefully peel off the contact paper.  Your shapes are perfectly positioned in a quick and easy step.


If you want to save the contact paper tracings, just stick them to a sheet of template plastic, as shown in the photo below.  Then you can peel them back off and reuse them.


So, your next step for the Sew Along is to prepare any layered cotton shapes, make your contact paper placement guides, and use them to glue your applique shapes to the background fabric.

And just one last thing – Before you do that, I want to point out that I  always do my handwork in the smallest possible form.  I am making the quilt below, so to start with I will applique onto the large circles in the center of each motif first.


Here is an example of that:


In the upper right motif in the full quilt, I will even applique the small circles onto the large pink petals before I applique them to the background fabric.  Anything you can do to make it easier to handle will help!


Next, I will applique the pieces in each motif to the background squares of just that block.  I have 3 of my four blocks prepared here –


Lastly, I will sew the four sections together and applique any pieces that overlap.


If anyone has any questions, please leave it in the comments and check back to see my response.  That should be the last of the prep!  Next time we will be ready to sew – my favorite part!




Posted in Quilt Along, Quilting, Tutorials | Tagged , , , , , , | 5 Comments

Part 4 of the Summer Stich Along – Preparing the cotton applique and using a stabilizer.

I’m back with a few more hints for the Stitch Along.  If you have missed the previous blog posts on the stitch along, just look above and click on the Joyful Stitcher Info and Summer Stitch Along.


First – I have a few quick photos that show you how I turn under the edges on my cotton appliques shapes.

Most of the book is wool applique, but some of you may have noticed that I mixed in some cotton.  The cotton applique shapes are very simple shapes and easy to turn under, so I decided it was worth it to take the time to do that step.  I have used this technique on the following quilts from the book:

For the In Bloom runner – on the yellow flower centers and buds

Gyspsy Star – just the yellow flower centers

The Mandala Quilts – the large teal circles in the runner and the 3 large yellow and 1 large aqua circle in the center of the motifs.


Once you locate your applique shape, you trace it onto Red Dot Tracer (see the gauze fabric under my Sharpie in the photo).  Just lay the Red Dot Tracer over the applique template in the book and trace.   Lay it right sides together with your chosen cotton fabric and sew on the drawn line.  You can sew just to the inside of the drawn line if you don’t want to worry about it showing.  Cut around the shape, leaving roughly a chubby 1/8″, as shown in the photo below.


Next, carefully cut a slit in the red dot tracer and pull the fabric through the hole to turn it right sides out.


See how easy this method turns the edges under for you?  (You can use your fingers if needed to shimmy the seam line all the way out to the outside edge of the applique shape.)  The product is super lightweight and you won’t even notice it as you are stitching.  (I don’t trim it out).  You can use an invisible whip stitch to applique this to the background fabric if you want, but I appliqued it just as I did the wool applique shapes – with a whip stitch and pearl cotton.  We will talk more about that soon!




Next, I want to talk about preparing your background fabric.  Most of the time I did nothing to it, but on some occasions, I applied a fabric stabilizer to the back side of my fabric.

The stabilizer helps keep the background fabric from being too floppy when you are handling it.  This is a personal preference thing, so you can decide if you want to use it for that reason.

It can also help keep the edges of the background fabric from fraying.  I found that I got my stitching done fast enough that it didn’t fray too badly, so I didn’t do it for this reason.

I usually used a stabilizer when I had some embroidery stitches mixed in with the applique.  Typically you use a hoop when doing the embroidery stitches to help keep your work from puckering.  I found it was challenging to use a hoop going over the thick wool – it was easier for me to just use a stabilizer.  The Fall Wall quilt below is an example of a project from the book that has applique mixed with embroidery stitches.


If you decide to use a stabilizer, please see the note on page 3 under “Cutting the background fabric for the applique” before cutting your background fabric.


My favorite stabilizer to use is in this scenario is Pellon EK130.  It is a lightweight fusible interfacing and it is shown in black in the photo below (You can also get it in white.  I got mine at JoAnns).  I have held my hand under the stabilizer so you can see how thin it is.  It is the same fusible that I put in my hems when I sew clothing.


In this photo, you can see what the stabilizer looks like when ironed to the back side of the background fabric.  In the photo below, I also show Shape Flex SF 101.  I have read that many people recommend this stabilizer when doing wool applique.  I bought some and tried it out, but I found it much too stiff for my liking.  If anyone has any thoughts on their favorite stabilizer, feel free to share in the comments below!


So, your next steps include preparing the wool applique and deciding if you are going to use a stabilizer.  If you are, you can iron that to the backside of your fabric before  you add the applique.


When I come back next, I have some tips  on how to easily transfer the pattern and get your applique shapes aligned on the background fabric and what product I use to adhere it to the background fabric.


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Tricks For Preparing Wool Applique Shapes

As part of the Summer Stitch Along that I’m doing for my Joyful Stitcher book, I wanted to quickly share some basics steps on preparing the wool applique shapes.  These steps will apply to any of the projects from the book.


The method I use is the freezer paper method.  (Sometimes I substitute contact paper, which I will talk about below.)  I’ve tried other methods, but these are my favorite.

I have read and heard on many podcasts that people love Steam a Seam 2 for wool applique.  I bought some and tried it, but didn’t care for it at all!  It is really hard to pull the needle through and it gums up your needle.  If you are doing an applique motif that uses the same shape over and over, you have to trace each one because they are not reusable.  (The photo below shows a freezer paper template, next to the Steam a Seam 2 option)

If you do use a fusible, I recommend cutting the middle out of the shape before pressing it to your wool – as shown in the photo below.  This helps reduce stiffness and allows the batting to fill the applique shape and creates nice dimension.  The photo below shows how I like to see a little dimension in my applique shapes and how the batting puffs out the shape a little bit.


After you cut on the drawn line, you peel the paper off.

You can still see the glue around the edges and this is the part that I found hard to get the needle through.

One positive of using a fusible is that it is supposed to keep the edges from fraying if you use felted wool.  I’ve used it with cotton applique and I think it frays horribly, so I’m not sure that it really helps.


So, getting back to the freezer paper method, you trace the shapes to the paper side of the freezer paper, then iron the waxy side to your wool.  (At this point you can do just a round cut around the shapes as shown below).    Next, you cut on the drawn line, then peel of the freezer paper template.


You can save the template and use it again.  See the sample below.  As you can see, the shape is already cut out, so just cut next to the edge.  You can use this template many times over, so it saves a lot of time with tracing.


You can also use this method with contact paper, as I mentioned above.  The advantage to this method, is you don’t have to be next to an iron, but it will still stick to the fabric as you cut the shape out.  It makes for a totally portable project.


You can also reuse this template, though not quite as many times before it looses its stickiness.


What about you guys?  Which method do you prefer?  Feel free to shape any thoughts on your experience that we can all learn from!


One other tip that I want to share –  I only cut a few a few shapes, then audition them on the quilt to see how they look before I cut them all out.  I find that sometimes the applique shapes look different then I expect, depending on the background color of my quilt.  I am at this point with my project now, so it looks kind of rough, but I wanted you to see how this audition process looks.


I’m doing the Mandala quilt, but I’m trying out a scrappy grey background instead of the cream that is shown in the book.  I have found that I need to use way brighter colors so that they show up better on the grey.


If you are joining the stitch along, you can work on preparing the applique shapes using the method you prefer.  I can also talk about my preferred method for turning the edges under if you are using cotton for your applique.  If anyone is interested in my methods, just leave a note in the comments.

Next week, I will be back to share a tip on how to get the applique shapes placed on your background.  Then we will be onto the stitching!


Posted in Quilting, wool applique | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 9 Comments

Summer Stitch Along – Supplies and Prep, Part 2

Has anybody been shopping for wool yet?

If you have, there might be some prep that you need to do – It will depend on what you bought.

If you bought felted wool that is hand-dyed, you don’t need to do anything.  If it isn’t hand-dyed (or you purchased it off the bolt) and you aren’t sure if it has been felted yet, throw it in a sink of hot water to soak for a bit.  Repeat if necessary until all any excess color bleeds out.  Then switch the water to cold.  The temperature change will help with the felting process.  Now press the excess water out and throw it in the dryer on high heat.   This process will shrink the wool and meld the fibers together a bit, so it frays less when sewn.

If you purchased wool felt, you can also choose to do this process to it.  I did with all of mine because I love the texture it produces (and I want any excess dye out of it).  In the photo below I show the difference in the before and after.  The wool felt on the right is straight off the bolt – totally flat with little texture.  The pieces on the left have gone through the felting process and have a wonderful texture and are much more interesting (IMO).


For those still looking for wool for the stitch along, you can view my last post for more info.  I also wanted to update you on a couple of places that are offering kits for the Joyful Stitcher book.  Bear Patch Quilting is working on getting kits ready for all the projects in the book.  The kits aren’t ready yet, but they are going to let me know when they are.  I will post those options as soon as I get the info.

I also saw that All in Stitches posted on their  Instagram that they are offering kits of the cover runner.  Here is their photo, if you are interested.



I have had many questions about adding wool to your quilts and one of the main questions is – Are the quilts washable?

Technically, I would say they are.  If you have felted your wool and gotten all the excess dye out, you could wash them.  I personally wouldn’t,  just like I prefer not to wash my quilts that have fusible raw edge applique.  I just don’t think that the applique holds up well and washing ages it so quickly.  After all that work, I want it to stay looking nice!  If I do have to wash a quilt with raw edge applique, I don’t throw it in the washing machine.  I spot clean them OR hand wash them in the tub and lay them flat to dry.  I would do the same with a quilt with wool applique.  That is the main reason that I only included designs in the book that are small – runners, pillows, and wall quilts.  They aren’t going to be on a bed where they need to be washed regularly.


Next, let’s talk about thread.  The photo below shows my stash of thread for wool and hand applique.  I also have a box this size of embroidery floss that can also be used for applique.  It’s my old box of cross stitch supplies, that comes in handy every so often.  The nice thing about embroidery floss is that it is inexpensive, comes in many colors, and is available in almost any town.  My issue with it is that it isn’t very exciting and I hate separating the strands.


I prefer Pearl Cotton wound on a ball or cone that is ready to use.  Another reason I prefer pearl cotton is because you can find variegated pearl cotton.  Love, Love, Love!  Not boring at all – but a little more expensive and a little harder to find.  I’ve tied lots of different kinds and I prefer to use Sue Spargo’s Eleganza or Valdani.  You get the most yardage for your money and it comes ready to use.  No soaking in water first and winding your own bobbins.

One thing I want to mention – You don’t need to invest in such a large box of thread.  I’ve learned that there are a few colors that I use over and over again.  The photo below shows my favorites.  The spools are all Eleganza and I have one ball of Valdani green, shown in the bottom of the photo.  I find that the Valdani colors aren’t nearly as bright as the Eleganza, but that line is missing a good medium green so that is why I mix in the Valdani.  I prefer to use size 5, though sometimes I use size 8 on small applique shapes.


The colors shown are:  Wildfire, Pretty Please, Hibiscus, Solar Yellow, Lettuce Wrap,  Tree Frog, Bird’s Eye View, Riptide and Lagoon. You can view all of Sue’s colors here.  Unfortunately I’ve lost my label on the Valdani one, so I can’t give you that color name.

These detail shots show how beautiful the variegated thread is –


Another supply that I thought you might want to know about the background fabric that I used for many of my projects.  I don’t generally use the same fabric over and over again (Why? when there are so many beautiful options to choose from).


But for this book, I used Kauffman’s Yarn Dyed Essex Linen for the background fabric on most of the grey quilts.  In fact, I have gone through 2 bolts of this fabric just on my own quilts.  It goes with so many things!  The main color I used is called Graphite.  You can see it in the photo below.


It is the “Yarn Dyed” part that makes it special – it is woven with a grey thread going one direction and a cream thread going the other way, creating this beautiful woven fabric.

I used it in the following quilts:

(All quilts found in my book, the Joyful Stitcher)

I’ve listed some of this color in my online store, if you are interested.  Otherwise check at your local shop and ask for Yarn Dyed Essex Linen.  The photo below shows two other colors that I’ve tried – steel and charcoal.


I have also listed the Charcoal Essex Linen in my shop, which I used in this pillow:


A couple other items you might want to have on hand – Freezer paper and Roxanne’s Glue Baste-it.  I also used contact paper to help with the placement of my applique shapes – which I will talk more about in the next post.

Next week I will talk about preparing the applique shapes.  If there are any other questions, just let me know in the comments.



Posted in Quilt Along, Quilting, wool applique | Tagged , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Sourcing Materials for Wool and the Joyful Stitcher Projects

In my last few posts, I mentioned that I would get to answering some of the questions that you all had about the projects in my new book, The Joyful Stitcher.  Many of them centered around where to get materials, so today I will talk a little bit about that.

I also mentioned having a summer stitch along with this book.  I asked commenters to tell me what they wanted to make for the stitch along  and I got many different answers.  Since there was no clear winner among the projects, I decided that we don’t need to pick one project – Why not work on whichever project we want to from the book?  Many of the techniques work for all the projects and I can answer all those questions as we go along.  I’m pretty sure that I am going to make the Mandala Quilt.  I have an empty spot in my kitchen right now that needs something special and this quilt is the perfect size.


Here’s how the stitch along will work – We will be very relaxed!  Whenever I get a chance, I will post something related to the stitch along.  I will try for once a week or so.  We will spend the summer stitching, with no set deadline.   Topics will include:

Sourcing materials – Thread, wool, and background fabric

Prepping the materials

Preparing the applique shapes

Tricks for placement of applique shapes on the background

Stitches used

Finishing and Quilting


The first material you will need to locate is the wool for the applique, so today I will talk about finding wool.  You will have the next couple weeks to locate the materials – either via ordering, shop hopping, or going through your stash.  Many of you mentioned that you have a stash of wools, but you may need to add a few to it.  You can also use cotton for this step if you wish.  In that case, you have next couple weeks to figure out what those fabrics will be.

I mentioned in a previous post that I used both wool and wool felt in my book.  I had questions about what the difference was.  Here’s a photo of both –


The wool felt is on the lower left and the felted wool is on the upper right.  Felted wool is a fabric made of wool thread that are woven together.  On the next photo you will be able to see the individual threads.  This fabric is washed and dried so the fibers shrink and tighten together.  The felt is made by matting wool fibers together, then compressing them to make a matt like material.  When soaked and dried, it has a bumpy texture, rather than a woven look.


Why did I use both?  Mainly, I was looking for a variety of colors and I just used whatever was the right color.  That is how you get a flower with slight variation in the color of the petals.  You could use just one color if you want, but I love the depth and interest it adds to use slight variations.


Cost is also a factor.  Felted Wool – which is often hand-dyed – is quite a bit more expensive.  In the photo below, the felted wool piece was $17 and the piece of felt was only $2.  By mixing in some felt, it really cuts down on the cost.  I prefer not to use only felt because I love the patterns and textures that using the felted wool adds – as many are plaids, stripes, houndstooths, etc.


I know many people go to thrift stores and buy wool quite inexpensively and felt it themselves.  I have never done this, so if anyone following along wants to talk about it in the comments, please do so.  Maybe just share a couple of tips about what to look for.  (I will talk about the felting process in a future post).


So – Where did I get my wools?

Wool Felt:  I bought all of my wool felt at  Julie (the owner) carries so many colors, that I could find everything I needed in one spot.  I bought the 12″ x 18″ pieces, but she also carries yardage (She also carries lots of wool felt and corrdinating  bundles).  The brand that Julie carries is made by National Nonwovens., so anybody that carries that brand of wool felt is a good option.  I don’t recommend going to a store like Joann’s and buying felt there.  What they carry is craft felt and contains no wool – it looks and feels horrible!  The felt that I used was 20-35% wool.

A couple of tips when selecting wool felt:  Sometimes you can find wool felt that is slightly variegated.  In the photos below, the felt on the left is all solid in color.  The felt pieces on the right are slightly variegated, giving them a really pretty look.  Mix these in when you can for added interest, without the price of hand-dyed wool.


Another thing I have done with the wool felt is to over-dye it.  In the photo below, I bought a piece of green wool felt and cut it in half.  I over-dyed one half using Rit dye.  It now looks hand-dyed and I get two coordinated colors to mix into my project.  It isn’t hard to do.  If you have done tea-dying or anything like that, you will have no problem with this.


Sourcing Felted Wool:

I have been collecting wool from many different places, so I don’t remember where all of my pieces have come from.  One of my favorite places to purchase from is  She carries lots of bright colors and many of you asked about where to find the bright colors.  Most shops carry the more primitive colors, so if you have trouble finding the brights, Sue’s shop is a good option.  She offers lots of size options in both hand-dyed solids and coordinating bundles.  The photo below shows one of the bundles from her.  (She also carries the thread that I use, so I will talk about that in a future post).

Two other sources that I purchased felted wool from are All in Stitches in Zumbrota, MN and Quilt Haven on Main in Hutchinson, MN.  For those that are fellow Minnesotans, I recommend stopping in.  Bear Patch Quilting in White Bear Lake, MN is going to be carrying lots of kits for the projects in this book.  If anybody is interested in these kits, just let me know and I will find out if they are ready.  If any of you have any favorite shops that carry wools, please leave their name in the comments so others can check them out!


Another brand of felted wool that I like is “In The Patch.”  They offer charm packs in coordinating colors, so it is a good way to get a lot of variety without having to purchase large pieces.  The packs below were purchased at Quilted Treasures in Rogers, MN and Quilt Haven on Main in Hutchinson, MN.  You can also order directly from In the Patch Designs.  These packs are great for the smaller projects in the book.  If you are looking to get big pieces for the larger projects in the book, their next size up are “Chunks” and “Chubbies” – though they only include one piece.


What’s the best way to collect for this project? – Go to a quilt show!  Last year, I went to the Minnesota State Guild Show.  There were many, many vendors that carried wool and it was  a great way to find it all in one place without driving everywhere or paying shipping.  It’s also great to see the wool in person, so you know exactly what the color is!


Wondering how much to purchase?  The fabric requirements in the book tell you what size piece you need.  I took a photo of my stash, just to show you that you really don’t need much to be able to make these projects.  This photo shows my stash AFTER I made all the quilts from the book, plus several others.


Hopefully that will get you started with your wool collecting.  If you have any other questions about this topic, please leave them in the comments and check back to see the answer

Next up:  Sourcing threads and background fabrics.


If you are on Instagram, I will also post there about the stitch along.  In addition to that topic, I also show many photos that never make it to the blog.  With two little boys, it’s hard to find time to sit down at the computer, but I can easily do a quick Instagram post from wherever we are playing!  My Instagram name is ankastreasures and our tag for the stitching will be #thejoyfulstitcher.  Click here for the direct link to my Instagram page.


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